The Latest Modification: Dual Stator Charging System
Updating the Charging System from a 1996, D-1 to a 1999, E-2.
As you may know, the D-series 1500’s have a weak charging system. The solo stator puts out enough wattage to charge the battery and run the bike in stock configuration. But, once you start pulling a trailer, run driving lights, and/or use heated clothing, the limitations of the charging system come to light. Recently, my stator started to fail, only putting out 12V instead of its normal 14.4V. I was able to acquire a complete charging system from a 99 Classic, or E-2, the first year with the dual stator system. I was able to get them for the price of a new, aftermarket stator. This will document the conversion process.
Parts Needed:
There are a few differences that I know of between the D-series and E-series Classics. Pistons, Transmission gears (4 vs. 5 speed and ratios), shift lever design, and charging system. The E-2 and on Classics have a dual stator system. This means they have a two sided rotor that revolves around an inner and outer stator. The stators are attached to separate rectifiers. To accommodate the wider rotor, the inner and outer engine covers are different. On the D-1, there is a single inner engine cover over the counter-balancer gears and single stator cover under a outer engine cover. The front shifter shaft is mounted to this inner engine cover. On the E-2+ bikes, the inner engine cover is slightly different, though the bolt pattern is the same, and the front shift shaft does not connect. There is an intermediate cover between the inner cover and stator cover that compensates for the wider rotor and also provides a mounting point for the shift shaft. The stator cover then mounts to the intermediate cover. I am not sure, yet, if there is a difference in the outer stator cover. http://www.buykawasaki.com/ lists two different part numbers for the
two bikes, but they could be identical. My guess is the E-2+ cover is a bit narrower so as to fit behind the outer engine cover. The E-2+ outer engine cover has a raised area to compensate for the intermediate cover and surrounds the front shift shaft. The chrome part of the outer cover is the same between the D-series and E-series.
I was able to obtain the rotor, stators, and covers from a 99 Classic off e-bay for the price of a new stator. I was also able to buy a 99 outer engine
cover also off e-bay from a salvage yard in Jesup, IA. Good guy, I’ll be looking his way for parts in the future. When this charging problem was first diagnosed, I bought a new rectifier, which wasn’t the problem. So, I now have two working rectifiers. I bought new gaskets from the local Dealer, Sindt’s, in Dubuque. The charging system and gaskets arrived April 26, yeah!
Cleaning and Inspecting:
First order of duty was to clean up the
used parts. This charging system was 
off a bike with 17000 miles on it. The POG failed causing motor damage, though they didn’t know that at the time. The owner thought it was due to a bad bearing. The owner didn’t know about VROC (http://www.vroc.org/) and subsequently didn’t know he could get the bike rebuilt for free. The 
dealer was balking at the job since the bike was out of warranty and the owner thought it was a factory defect. It was, but not the one he was thinking of. Anyway, the motor blew two or three years ago and the bike has remained a basket case since then. The parts were dirty with old oil and dust and the rotor has some rust on it. My first job was to tear everything apart, clean it up, insure all the wiring is secure and locktite all the screws.
As you can see, the parts are quite dirty. All the gasket material has to be scraped off and the covers will need to be cleaning in some solvent. I think I can get the stators clean by hand. I’ll use some 400 and 600 grit paper to clean the rust off the rotor. I’ll use a wire brush on the inside of the rotor.
Here you see everything after an initi
al cleaning. I may still need to clean the stators with solvent. I really don’t want old clumps of stuff floating around in my bike’s oil. The rotor cleaned up about as well as can be expected without using a lathe.
The Process:
According to Hotsauce at VROC, I should be able to change the covers and rotor without pulling the motor, despite what the service manual says. The issue is getting at some of the cover mounting bolts. I will have to loosen the mounting bolts and tip the motor some. I imagine I will have to disconnect the drive shaft, too, but I shouldn’t have to pull the coolant or electrical system.
Well, this is as far as I got the first night. More as this project progresses.
Ride Safe! Bierkan
As you may know, the D-series 1500’s have a weak charging system. The solo stator puts out enough wattage to charge the battery and run the bike in stock configuration. But, once you start pulling a trailer, run driving lights, and/or use heated clothing, the limitations of the charging system come to light. Recently, my stator started to fail, only putting out 12V instead of its normal 14.4V. I was able to acquire a complete charging system from a 99 Classic, or E-2, the first year with the dual stator system. I was able to get them for the price of a new, aftermarket stator. This will document the conversion process.Parts Needed:
There are a few differences that I know of between the D-series and E-series Classics. Pistons, Transmission gears (4 vs. 5 speed and ratios), shift lever design, and charging system. The E-2 and on Classics have a dual stator system. This means they have a two sided rotor that revolves around an inner and outer stator. The stators are attached to separate rectifiers. To accommodate the wider rotor, the inner and outer engine covers are different. On the D-1, there is a single inner engine cover over the counter-balancer gears and single stator cover under a outer engine cover. The front shifter shaft is mounted to this inner engine cover. On the E-2+ bikes, the inner engine cover is slightly different, though the bolt pattern is the same, and the front shift shaft does not connect. There is an intermediate cover between the inner cover and stator cover that compensates for the wider rotor and also provides a mounting point for the shift shaft. The stator cover then mounts to the intermediate cover. I am not sure, yet, if there is a difference in the outer stator cover. http://www.buykawasaki.com/ lists two different part numbers for the
two bikes, but they could be identical. My guess is the E-2+ cover is a bit narrower so as to fit behind the outer engine cover. The E-2+ outer engine cover has a raised area to compensate for the intermediate cover and surrounds the front shift shaft. The chrome part of the outer cover is the same between the D-series and E-series.I was able to obtain the rotor, stators, and covers from a 99 Classic off e-bay for the price of a new stator. I was also able to buy a 99 outer engine
cover also off e-bay from a salvage yard in Jesup, IA. Good guy, I’ll be looking his way for parts in the future. When this charging problem was first diagnosed, I bought a new rectifier, which wasn’t the problem. So, I now have two working rectifiers. I bought new gaskets from the local Dealer, Sindt’s, in Dubuque. The charging system and gaskets arrived April 26, yeah!Cleaning and Inspecting:
First order of duty was to clean up the
used parts. This charging system was 
off a bike with 17000 miles on it. The POG failed causing motor damage, though they didn’t know that at the time. The owner thought it was due to a bad bearing. The owner didn’t know about VROC (http://www.vroc.org/) and subsequently didn’t know he could get the bike rebuilt for free. The 
dealer was balking at the job since the bike was out of warranty and the owner thought it was a factory defect. It was, but not the one he was thinking of. Anyway, the motor blew two or three years ago and the bike has remained a basket case since then. The parts were dirty with old oil and dust and the rotor has some rust on it. My first job was to tear everything apart, clean it up, insure all the wiring is secure and locktite all the screws.As you can see, the parts are quite dirty. All the gasket material has to be scraped off and the covers will need to be cleaning in some solvent. I think I can get the stators clean by hand. I’ll use some 400 and 600 grit paper to clean the rust off the rotor. I’ll use a wire brush on the inside of the rotor.
Here you see everything after an initi
al cleaning. I may still need to clean the stators with solvent. I really don’t want old clumps of stuff floating around in my bike’s oil. The rotor cleaned up about as well as can be expected without using a lathe.The Process:
According to Hotsauce at VROC, I should be able to change the covers and rotor without pulling the motor, despite what the service manual says. The issue is getting at some of the cover mounting bolts. I will have to loosen the mounting bolts and tip the motor some. I imagine I will have to disconnect the drive shaft, too, but I shouldn’t have to pull the coolant or electrical system.
Well, this is as far as I got the first night. More as this project progresses.
Ride Safe! Bierkan
posted by James Vierkant at 3:15 PM
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