Putting it all back together

Here's the front counterbalancer drive gear, spacer and ratchet as recieved.

Here they are after a little bit of cleaning.

This shows the hole that had to be welded up.

This shows the rotor installed. It looks like it's really close to the kickstand mount, but there is actually quite a bit of clearance.

This was a concern. The raised stip in the middle of the rotor is what triggers the coils to fire. This is longer on the E-models vs the D due to the K-tric ignition system. The ECU uses this strip and the K-tric to detemine the optimal timing on E-2 and later bikes. The D models do not have K-tric and rely only on the short rotor strip. However, the bike started up with no problems. YEAH!

Here's the modified front shift arm. Since this pic, I've lengthened it 3".

Here's the rear arm. It will also need to be lengthened and part of the offset put back in. Where it is black, it had two 90 deg bends.

Here's the front shift shaft. This is the stock D1 shaft with the little arm cut and moved. Since this photo, I've added 1/2" length to the arm and ground off 1/8" off the motor end of the shaft so as to clear the frame.

OK, this is UGLY, but it'll work for now. It' hidden to, so oh well. It's the transfer link from the front to the rear shift shafts. I'd make a new one, but one end is LH 6mm threads. I don't have that die. I'll order a new one.

Here are two shots showing where the D1 and E2 cover bolt holes don't line up. Basically nothing I can do here except hope the ones to the right and left hold enough to prevent any leaks.

Note the position of the rear shift shaft arm in this picture. Not only will it not upshift in this position, but you can't remove it from the shaft due to the kickstand gussett. Guess how I know?